She Says: Life Moves Pretty Fast…

…if you don’t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.

Ferris Bueller would be proud. We spent an amazing four days in Chicago, taking in all the sights we could manage in a 40* C heatwave. It. Was. Warm.

The best way to get acquainted with the city is on the river - the Chicago Architecture Foundation Center River Cruise Aboard Chicago's First Lady is a local favourite (it doesn’t quite roll off the tongue, though). The docents are volunteers that work with the Chicago Architecture Foundation, so they’re pretty passionate and insanely knowledgeable. We learnt so much about the history of the city, river, and people in only 90 minutes. My favourite tidbit was that in 1887, the flow of the Chicago River was reversed. Back in the day, the Chicago River was the catch-all for the city’s sewage and industrial waste… which emptied into Lake Michigan. Lake Michigan was (and still is) the city’s source of drinking water. After a health scare, the city was exploring alternate options and so they reversed the flow of the river, sending the city’s waste barrelling towards the Mississippi. These days the water is a lot cleaner, making for a lovely afternoon aboard Chicago’s First Lady.

Without a doubt, the Chicago Art Institute is one of the most important art museums in the world. I was excited to explore what I could in a couple of hours (definitely not the whole thing, it’s yuuuuuuuge), so I started with the Modern Wing. My favourite exhibit was called Everything Connects by Christien Meindertsma, a very interesting exploration of fibres – their production, use, re-use potential and disposal. However, there weren’t very many other exhibitions. Literally hundreds of rooms filled with art, very little interpretation, or theming other than broad titles such as “Contemporary” or “American” or “Asian”. I walked past the Andy Warhols twice without realizing, and just about missed altogether the Jackson Pollock pieces that I was keen to see. So I don’t know. It’s great to have that collection, it’s just very difficult to consume it all at once.

A few snaps from Christien Meindertsma: Everything Connects

Despite this, I had a great time observing people taking pictures of their friends looking at art. There were literally hoards of people near the famous pieces waiting for their turn. I took a few photos of people taking pictures of their friends looking at art… maybe I’ll send them to the Institute to get my own exhibition going.

Another Chicago highlight was the Skydeck at the Willis Tower (formerly the Sears Tower). Rumour has it so many people tried to re-enact the scene from Ferris Bueller that staff spent all day wiping forehead smudges off the windows… so they built these glass platforms that extend of the 103rd floor, so you can properly look down. It was fun. They didn’t crack while we were there, but they did a few weeks prior.

It’s not a visit to Chicago without a quintessential deep-dish pie. Our hosts recommended Pequod’s… and seconded by the hundreds of people in line before us. We were put on a waitlist and told to come back in 90 minutes. Once we were seated, it was a 45 minute wait for pizza. Learn from our mistake – use Yelp to put yourself in the electronic queue, before you show up. But I’m not complaining. I didn’t know this, but I have been waiting 28 years for this pizza. They get the cast iron pan screaming hot before putting the dough down, creating a toasty, caramelized crust. This crust is Lizzo thicc. Then it’s smothered in the best tomato sauce, slightly tangy, and covered with about a kilogram of cheese. Mmmmmmm.

I didn’t really know what to expect with Chicago, but I can confidently say it’s my favourite US city (taking the crown from Seattle). It helps that we were staying with the most amazing pair, in their beautiful Logan Square home. It was actually the loveliest neighbourhood… we even enjoyed a few drinks on the patio with the neighbours, and explored the local independent bars, restaurants and stores. Such fun!